Here is our recommendation for removing the build surface from the Flexi plate, you will need: Cardboard to protect your work surface, lots of paper towels, rubber gloves, protective glasses, a spatula, and your choice of acetone, wallpaper stripper, or Goo Gone.

-It's easier to remove the build surface sheet if you put the whole Flexi plate in the freezer for half an hour.

-Once you remove the build surface sheet, then you need to remove the exposed 3M glue. Work over the cardboard and wet the exposed glue well and then cover with paper towels soaked in your remover of choice. Let sit.

-Scrape off glue gunk with a scraper, wiping down the scraper with a paper towel (or scraping off onto cardboard) after each swipe, and repeat until clean.

Yes, we have custom designed the Wham Bam Magnetic Base to be able to work at 150°C continuously. We cannot guarantee every material, but most do not need a bed temperature over 110°C.

No, just put the magnetic base on your heated bed and you are ready to go. The only adjustment you may have to do is change your Z limit switch location based on change in thickness of base material.

This depends on your machine and your set up. If you have a flat, unwarped and stable heated bed under the glass, it may be in your best interest to remove your glass and mount the magnet to the heated bed. If on the other hand your bed changes form with heat, is warped or not flat, you may prefer to mount the magnet to the glass.

The advantage of mounting to the heated bed is a quicker time to desired temperature, and a definitive flat surface. It will also reduce the weight of the bed, important for machines with beds on moving carriages. The advantage of mounting to glass may be to have a stable and definitive flat surface. 

No, as long as you use a heated bed PEX should create enough great stick and hold to keep your layers down without any glue or additives.

Yes, we are planning to add many more in the future so tell us here if you would like to see a different format than we currently offer, if we get enough requests, we will make it.

Yes it will although we cannot guarantee how strong your printer’s magnet is, and unless otherwise stated, most common magnets used on 3D printers cannot exceed 80-90°C as this is the Curie point at which the magnet will permanently fail. If you print PETG, ABS or other high temp materials, you risk permanently ruining the magnetic base. We guarantee our Wham Bam magnetic base for continual use up to 150°C.

Just measure your bed and find the kit size that will be equal to or smaller than your bed size. Learn more here.

Yes you can but keep in mind you will slightly decrease the magnetic grip. If you often print with filaments that have high shrinkage and curling you may want to mount only to one side or you can use binder clips on the occasional high curl print as a precaution.

We would recommend using a hole punch to punch out an accurate hole without any raised rough edges before you install the magnetic base. You can also apply the magnetic base whole, and if you need to disassemble, carefully cut a hole at a later date with a cutter knife. We also recommend putting a nut on the screw on the other side of your heated bed and using some Locktite nut blocker to secure it, that way it will never come unscrewed, you can always remove the Locktite by hitting it with a fine torch or lighter.

We highly recommend using 000 steel wool, our CAP or Scotch-Brite 7447 pads and scuff for 5-6 minutes to keep the PEX clean and uncontaminated, improve adhesion, make release more predictable, and to keep a consistent surface for the life of the build plate. Scuffing will help that sticky filaments like PETG so they don't bond as easily while promoting adhesion on others that may want to curl like PLA. Your surface will not be glossy but if done right it will have a very smooth satin finish!

Watch our how to video from Peter The founder of WamBam.

Always prepare the PEX for next print by using either 000 steel wool, CAP, or a red Scotch-Brite pad for about 10 seconds, then clean with 90% or higher IPA and fresh paper towels a few times. This will keep oils and contaminants from building up that can cause bonding issues later.

See this video for maintenance between prints.

Slicer Settings are generic and they do not know which filament you are using unless it is one of the brands they support in the options. More importantly they do not know the build plate composition unless it's their own. Therefore, it is important to create new profiles for your build plate and your filament for best results and to prevent damage.

The best rule of thumb is to set your slicer profile Nozzle Temperatures to those printed on the side of your filament spool. Set the Recommended Nozzle Temperature in line with the Min and Max exactly as those on the spool. Always start with the middle of the range provided in the range. For Example : If the range is 200-230, start with 215 and adjust as needed. 

You do not want to exceed recommended temperatures listed by filament manufacturers as this may cause the structure of the polymer chains to be compromised, carbonize, create weaker parts or print issues, and worse, may damage the PEX.

Use this text to answer questions in as much detail as possible for your customers.Always wait till the printed model is completely cool before flexing off and never flex when Hot/warm. Never rip or pull off print and always FLEX it off carefully when cool.

After removing parts, always prepare the PEX for the next print by using either 000 steel wool or a red Scotchbrite pad for about 10 seconds, then clean with 90% or higher IPA and fresh paper towels a few times to remove any halos of filament. Do not use other rags, microfiber, wipes or towels.

Try common dish detergent or vinegar and clean with water as these help break fats added to filaments with effects. Do not use Acetone as this will damage the surface.

Microbubbles such as these are not an issue, will not affect prints, and should dissipate and disappear with time and use. Feel free to reach out should you ever feel they are not going away.

Micro bubbles usually form by parts sticking too well to the PEX and pulling the build surface as the parts cool and shrink or by forcing off parts without flexing. This makes the 3M tape below the PEX stretch and creates air bubbles. Luckily these will dissipate and disappear over time, heat, and use.

Many times microbubbles form when printing large prints at higher temperatures, as the plastic begins to shrink when cooling it will either release from the build surface and warp (worst case) or if you get great adhesion this shrinking will pull on the PEX and stretch the 3M glue underneath creating bubbles. You can also try lowering your hot end temperatures or printing with less infill if you are worried about bubbles forming.

It is always best to use 220 grit sandpaper to rough up the metal surface uniformly and remove any excess contaminants. If your surface is painted, try to break through the paint layer with the sandpaper at least partially. 

Here is a video on the whole procedure that we recommend.  

FDM Printer Installation Video.

From 16:30 onward Done

Let the 3M glue on the magnet cure for a full 72 hours before use.

Yes, using microfiber towels, wipes or other clothes will cause more contaminants to build up as it will not be 100% clean like a new paper towel. Please clean with alcohol (90% or higher IPA) and fresh/clean paper towels.

It’s always best to test all new filaments in a corner with a test cube to get the settings correct before going for a large print. Every manufacturer has their own composition and secret formula for filaments. Many put in additives to enhance different properties, like clarity, water absorption, flexibility, aesthetic enhancements.  Few or none disclose or share this information with us nor the public.  Some of these additives can cause excessive bonding, some manufacturers even have different formulas that vary between colors.  

That’s why we always suggest that when changing filaments or colors, playing with settings, or unsure, do a small cube test print in the far corner of your build surface.  If it comes off easily once cooled you are probably good to go when printing larger parts.  If it bonds too well, play with your settings, and or use a glue stick when in doubt(a glue stick is not needed for PLA). PETG and some other filaments sometimes need a glue stick.